A Homestay at Gunung Mas Tea Plantation

Originating from the era of the Dutch, vast tea plantations sprawl throughout the low hills of Java. Row after row of well-kept tea bushes are part of the scenic landscape of the highlands in Bandung and the Puncak Pass region of West Java, particularly ideal areas for cultivating tea. However, in recent years the tea industry in Indonesia has faced decline as global competition becomes fiercer, and the costs associated with production increase. Many tea plantations are turning towards tourism to help generate some additional revenue to continue operations.

Gunung Mas tea plantation can be found along the Puncak Pass on the road from Bogor to Bandung. The agricultural landscape of this estate has many roles other than the straightforward business of growing and selling tea. Like rice farming, tea harvesting has become part of the local Sudanese culture and folk history. In addition, the labor intensity of the work provides employment for many workers, some who are 2^nd and 3^rd generation employees who have grown up in the residence village inside the tea plantation. Another role is environmental. Because of the removal of many natural forests around Jakarta, the tea plants now must take up the important function of preventing soil erosion and recharging the ground water supply to the nearby North flowing river leading to the city. While the green shrubbery of tea plants has an aesthetic value too, land is valuable and many tea estates are being sold to developers. However, these agricultural areas are worth preserving.

(workers at Gunung Mas)

The tourism at Gunung Mas is still at a small scale compared to other plantations that have become tourism magnets in nearby countries, like the Cameron Highlands estates in Malaysia. But a visit to Gunung Mas can still provide an enjoyable diversion on the way too Bandung. At Gunung Mas one can take a tour of the factory, walk through the tea fields, ride ponies, and have a picnic from food provided by venders. A unique and newly developed tourism feature is a home stay with one of the families that live on the tea plantation. Through the help of the Buena Vista Education Center, I arranged a one night stay at the tea estate.

I met Acih at the entrance of house 54, the left side of a small brown one story duplex, one of many housing tea workers and their families. She is a thin Sundanes woman that dresses in long skirts and a Muslim head covering. I spent a day and night with her family, a husband, two daughters and their husbands, a son, and a cute, but energetic, 3 year old named Alya. Acih’s sister, Yanah, escorted me on a 5 minute public van ride from the BV education center to Gunung Mas, and then both she and her sister showed me around the area.

It was an interesting peek into this family’s life, though language was severely limiting. At first I was kicking myself for not knowing more Bahasa Indonesian than “Thank you,” only to realize they don’t speak Indonesian but a completely different dialect called Sunda. The father of the house, who wore a traditional skirt and black cap, knew a few words of English, but it was limited to “Please,” and “I’m sorry, don’t speak English.” Strangely, the little 3 year old also knew the word “sexy,” which she loved to exclaim before posing for a picture. I enjoyed a traditional meal with this family, dried fish, green legumes from the area, and rice, eaten with hands while sitting around the floor watching tv … Chronicles of Riddik was playing. Before I had been told many people learn about American culture through movies, but I’m realizing many people learn about American culture through ACTION movies. No wonder they think the US is so violent and the women all dress promiscuously. Most of the evening was spent in this newly traditional pastime, watching television.

The next morning the family began the day with a plate of Nasi goring, fried rice. Those who were going off to work that day left, the rest did chores around the house such as wade into the chilly river and wash clothes in the stream. I ended up playing around with the little 3yr old, who was able to turn everything around her into a toy. I’d definitely recommend a visit to the agro-tourism facilities at Gunung Mas, it’s a great way to experience the tea plantation and to see the lives of the people who live there.

"Sexy!"