A Homestay at Gunung Mas Tea Plantation

Originating from the era of the Dutch, vast tea plantations sprawl throughout the low hills of Java. Row after row of well-kept tea bushes are part of the scenic landscape of the highlands in Bandung and the Puncak Pass region of West Java, particularly ideal areas for cultivating tea. However, in recent years the tea industry in Indonesia has faced decline as global competition becomes fiercer, and the costs associated with production increase. Many tea plantations are turning towards tourism to help generate some additional revenue to continue operations.

Gunung Mas tea plantation can be found along the Puncak Pass on the road from Bogor to Bandung. The agricultural landscape of this estate has many roles other than the straightforward business of growing and selling tea. Like rice farming, tea harvesting has become part of the local Sudanese culture and folk history. In addition, the labor intensity of the work provides employment for many workers, some who are 2^nd and 3^rd generation employees who have grown up in the residence village inside the tea plantation. Another role is environmental. Because of the removal of many natural forests around Jakarta, the tea plants now must take up the important function of preventing soil erosion and recharging the ground water supply to the nearby North flowing river leading to the city. While the green shrubbery of tea plants has an aesthetic value too, land is valuable and many tea estates are being sold to developers. However, these agricultural areas are worth preserving.

(workers at Gunung Mas)

The tourism at Gunung Mas is still at a small scale compared to other plantations that have become tourism magnets in nearby countries, like the Cameron Highlands estates in Malaysia. But a visit to Gunung Mas can still provide an enjoyable diversion on the way too Bandung. At Gunung Mas one can take a tour of the factory, walk through the tea fields, ride ponies, and have a picnic from food provided by venders. A unique and newly developed tourism feature is a home stay with one of the families that live on the tea plantation. Through the help of the Buena Vista Education Center, I arranged a one night stay at the tea estate.

I met Acih at the entrance of house 54, the left side of a small brown one story duplex, one of many housing tea workers and their families. She is a thin Sundanes woman that dresses in long skirts and a Muslim head covering. I spent a day and night with her family, a husband, two daughters and their husbands, a son, and a cute, but energetic, 3 year old named Alya. Acih’s sister, Yanah, escorted me on a 5 minute public van ride from the BV education center to Gunung Mas, and then both she and her sister showed me around the area.

It was an interesting peek into this family’s life, though language was severely limiting. At first I was kicking myself for not knowing more Bahasa Indonesian than “Thank you,” only to realize they don’t speak Indonesian but a completely different dialect called Sunda. The father of the house, who wore a traditional skirt and black cap, knew a few words of English, but it was limited to “Please,” and “I’m sorry, don’t speak English.” Strangely, the little 3 year old also knew the word “sexy,” which she loved to exclaim before posing for a picture. I enjoyed a traditional meal with this family, dried fish, green legumes from the area, and rice, eaten with hands while sitting around the floor watching tv … Chronicles of Riddik was playing. Before I had been told many people learn about American culture through movies, but I’m realizing many people learn about American culture through ACTION movies. No wonder they think the US is so violent and the women all dress promiscuously. Most of the evening was spent in this newly traditional pastime, watching television.

The next morning the family began the day with a plate of Nasi goring, fried rice. Those who were going off to work that day left, the rest did chores around the house such as wade into the chilly river and wash clothes in the stream. I ended up playing around with the little 3yr old, who was able to turn everything around her into a toy. I’d definitely recommend a visit to the agro-tourism facilities at Gunung Mas, it’s a great way to experience the tea plantation and to see the lives of the people who live there.

"Sexy!"

The Puncak Pass

Leaving the house, we drive along the windy mountainous road called the Puncak Pass on our way to Pangrango National Park. The stalls that line this road are identical and block the view of the valley down below, forcing motorists to stop and buy a snack at a stall in order to enjoy the view. This is much to the complaint of those who remember what the road used to be like with “free” views. These stalls were started by villagers in the area, and soon by villagers from other areas, to cash in on the numerous motor vehicles traveling through the Puncak Pass, especially on weekends and holidays. Soon the supply outweighed the demand, so many of these stalls now stand vacant and, as Dr. Ko exclaims as we pass, “unsightly!”

(view from Puncak Pass - haha, no i can't take a pic this good, found it)

However, the car soon stops at one of these stalls and we get out to enjoy some warm spiced tea and some of the area’s well-known food. The shop owner brings us a plate of thin pancakes and another sweet doughy desert, apparently the Dutch did leave some legacy in the food. Picking up the phone Dr. Ko calls a friend, and below us maybe a hundred meters a lanky man dressed in a blue collared shirt and a flat styled cap comes out of his house, cell phone still pressed to his ear, and waves up. This is Yoen Wachyoe, a professional hotel manager. Born in Indonesia, he grew up in Baltimore, and then moved around the world during a 25 year career for Hyatt. He now manages hotels of his choosing back in Indonesia. With a cigarette pressed to his lips, he and Dr. Ko commiserate on how tourism is losing its soul, and how many in the business are forgetting about their own culture as they try to gain short term profits from tourism. Maintenance, they decide, is one of the biggest issues facing a tourism location’s long term outlook. Even the most sustainable tourism plans often go astray due to lack of education for the locals who are involved in the area’s upkeep and maintenance. By not allocating enough money to continual worker training and development, community education, and facilities upgrading the long term potential of even the most responsible programs disappears quickly.

Recentlly, Yoen has been developing approaches to make the Puncak Pass Resort better, environmentally, socially, and economically. The resort is just down the road, so he invites us to take a tour. Originally built by the Dutch in 1928, the owners have kept this old world Dutch theme and marketed the place as a heritage hotel. Pointing towards the back of the resort, he talks about purchasing some local animals like goats, deer, and turkeys to help expose the city kids to a more rustic environment. We move through the garden, and he shows us the fresh herb garden he started. Instead of importing spices from McCormick, the kitchen staff now uses the fresh herbs. He also trained the kitchen crew on the plants upkeep and encouraged workers to take snippings to start their own spice gardens at home. A management training program is in the works with the Buena Vista center to provide additional training to wait staff in order to improve their skills training. In an attempt to engender a sense of native pride, framed Batik cloth are used as decoration and a soft melody of traditional Sundanese music is played in the dining area. He also has it set up so that almost 2/3rds of the waste generated is then absorbed in the upkeep of the hotel. The way he talks, shows his passion for this work. Yoen describes it as trying to make the place “holistically” improved.

While the Pangrango National Park ended up being closed, I still had a very enjoyable time listening to these intuitive discussions on tourism. In addition, we were still able to visit the stunning Cibodas botanical gardens branch located next to the National Park.