Lazy Days on Gili Air

I only spent one day on Gili T., then took an island hopping boat to Gili Air, a more laid back and less developed island. It’s easy to get stuck on Gili Air, which I did. This island still maintains mostly bamboo huts, like the one I stayed in ...

While staying on the island I did my best to minimize the resources I used and the trash I created. This meant quick showers, refilling a water bottle at local restaurants, and if I did generate any trash (paper, broken headphones, etc.) I took it with me when I left the island. I spent tranquil days reading in a hammock, tanning on the beach, and I went snorkeling for the first time in my life. I went with guide from the guest house where I was staying and we rented snorkels and fins from a local vender. Amazing. Internet access is so slow to the point of being useless (which explains the delay in posting these entries), but I did have a chance to look up some eco-snorkeling tips before my original departure. Like, many websites giving eco-advice, these tips seem obvious, but then you see the pictures of people holding up the coral they found … anyway, here’s the link.

(Gili Air)

There are far fewer visitors that stay on Gili Air. While Gili Trawangan has a community group called SATGAS managing the community’s and tourist’s interests, the only type of local authority on Gili Air and Meno is from the local village head who handles disputes. At this time I’m not sure if any waste management programs have been started? Most of the places are still locally owned, but two professional dive schools have opened on Gili Air, as well as a few upscale establishments. One place even tries to appeal to visitors by offering a “gym.”

On my last day on Gili Air, and the Gili islands in general, I sign up for a full day glass bottom boat tour of the three islands. I was also able to visit Gili Meno for the first time. From what I understand most visitors to Meno, especially during the offseason, are just day visitors. I went with an Italian couple, a German couple, and the Indonesian 2 men who operate the boat to various snorkeling places around the islands. Their boat, along with a few other glass bottom boats originating from the other islands, tie up to a pre-arranged anchored buoy – so everyone is snorkeling at the same spot. We end up seeing several turtles, brightly colored fishes, and at one location a large stingray quickly zooms by some meters under our feet. And, if the call to prayer seems mesmerizing to my foreign ears usually, it seems even more so when snorkeling underwater and hearing it echoing around the fishes.

It’s a Catch 22 when it comes to the fish surrounding the islands – visitors love seeing the multicolored fish, but they also love eating them. Each night the restaurants on the islands display a selection of newly caught fish available for BBQ, and served with rice and vegetables. While Gili Trawangan is trying to work with fisherman to modify their fishing methods, there is still a steady demand for fish created by tourism … and, um, I admit it’s delicious.

After several days spent on Gili Air, I finally drag myself away. Taking the slow boat away from the island, I can’t help but ponder the future of this little island. Tourism will undoubtedly increase, but I just hope the island is able to adopt some appropriate management strategies to keep the tourism industry in balance. Gili Air has such a tranquil character and rich marine environment it would be sad to see it overexploited for only short-term gain, but as the projects on Gili Trawangan demonstrate even the best intentioned sustainable development ideas can lead to problems.